A Trek in Three Parts (The Conclusion)

Part III

(Originally written on 11/23)

Mt. Sabinyo: 3669 m above sea level, 1300 m from base to peak, 3 separate peaks each providing different technical challenges, 14 km worth of trail from base to peak and back. This was the volcano that Courtney and I chose to climb. We were given three options: the first being the tallest volcano, the second being the smallest, and the third, Sabinyo, being the most difficult. If we were going to scale a volcano, we were going to do it right.

The forest leading up to the base of the volcano changed quickly as we approached Sabinyo. First, it was typical secondary forest with scattered clearings allowing the challenges ahead to be in clear view. Next came a spectacular bamboo forest towering above us. The array of thin bamboo stalks gave the forest an incredible amount of depth. It felt like we were hiking through Eastern Asia rather than Western Uganda. We crossed a river several times over wooden bridges until the bamboo gave way to secondary forest again. Within two hours, we were at the 'official' start of the volcano.

The terrain told us immediately that we have arrived, no long a slightly rising slope, but a more than 45 degree incline. The ground was wet from the constant mist that cloaked the mountain side, so the man-made steps consisting of stripped tree limbs that had been nailed into the soil almost did more harm than good because of how slippery they had become. We wound our way up the volcano, mostly on the makeshift stairs, but we also had to cross ladders from time to time that were more horizontal than vertical. Crossing them required some support from the surrounding trees. Soon, we were deep into the tropical part of the volcano. The moss that clung to trees in this forest, however, was gray rather than the bright green we saw in Bwindi Impenetrable. It felt like we had stumbled into Sleepy Hollow when the mist passed through the most covered trees, but rather than creepy, the sight was more comforting when we paused from time to time to rest and take in the surroundings.

The first peak seemed to be the most difficult to summit. There were a few points where I started to question if I could make it to the top of the first peak, or if I DID make it, would I want to continue on to the next two. As we rounded the top of the first though, there was no doubt in my mind that I needed to go all the way. The view from the first peak showed us parts of Rwanda and the Congo, but the most impressive view was that of the next two peaks that rose high above us.

The path between peaks one and two rested on a ridge that couldn't have been much more than 6' wide with sheer drop-offs on either side. Surprisingly, the path wasn't frightening at all, and the view down into the valleys bellow was breathtaking -- not that I had that much breath to take at that point.

We made it to peak fairly easily and took a breather. Once this I started to notice was how different the surrounding had become. Of course, the gray mist surrounding us remained constant, but all of the vegetation seemed much softer, yet desert-like compared to what we had hiked through on the way up to peak one. It felt as if we were standing on layers of lush moss rather than solid ground. Suddenly, all I wanted to do was reach the final peak, as if my whole being had just reached the same conclusion in that instant and that there was no other possible direction my life could go from there.

Peak three proved to be a difficult one to reach. The trail started out much like the first two peak trials did, but soon we reached a long series of ladders. Much like the stairs, the ladders were made of pieces of limbs that had been striped of their bark over time. The constant mist also made them incredibly slippery. Some parts of the ladders were completely vertical. Als that point, I made the mistake of looking down behind me into the gray oblivion below, but I couldn't let fear get in my way, not when I'd already come that far. Eventually, the ladders cam to an end, and it was only a short hike from there to our goal.

To be honest, the summit wasn't what I expected. It wasn't a crater by any means, and we were completely surrounded by clouds and mist. However, it felt like we had found some piece of uncharted land on a distant planet. The ground was made up of large volcanic boulders covered in soft green moss, and there were small palm-like trees all around us. It seemed that the hill we were on simply disappeared into the gray. As we sat on the peak, soaking in our accomplishment, the mist gave way to show a spectacular view of Rwanda to the left, the Congo to the right, and another peak of the volcano further ahead of us deeper into the Congo. The spot where we were sitting was actually the exact point where Rwanda, the Congo, and Uganda met.

After waiting a while to see if the clouds would open again only to get rained on, we decided to head back down Mt. Sabinyo. I have to say, even though it was much easier going down hill, the ladders were infinitely harder going back. The fresh rain on the bare wood didn't help either. After getting past the first peak again, we were on the home stretch when Courtney slipped on one of the rocks we were climbing down and twisted her ankle. Surprisingly, she showed amazing will power and made it the entire tow hours we had left to hike back to our transport, albeit at a bit slower pace.

When we got back to our hotel, we set out on a new quest -- a quest to find some travellers to split a private hire ride back to Kampala, neither of us wanting to get back on a Ugandan bus anytime soon. Luckily, we found a couple from London who, after hearing our horror story of the ride out, reconsidered getting on a bus themselves and opted to come along with us. Now at least I can sleep soundly tonight and not have to worry about whether or not I will ever make it home alive and be able to tell this story to anyone...

A Trek in Three Parts (Cont.)

Part II

(Origially written on 11/22)

Yesterday was our rest day in Nkuringo. It would have been a great day, perfect weather in a perfect setting, but I was suffering from a bit of dehydration. By the end of the day and after many cups of tea I was feeling much better, and I was able to enjoy sitting around the bonfire. One thing Courtney and I realized was how much we missed being with Westerners our own age, so it was refreshing to sit and talk with our fellow travelers. Also, I got to play a little guitar for the first time since our training in Burkley, CA back in August!

The majority of the hiking today was down hill and on dirt roads, but we traveled over 25 km by foot. The first part of the trek led us down from Nkuringo through mountain farmlands. The fact that people are able to cultivate the practically vertical mountain sides is beyond me, let alone the fact that their families live on the very same slopes. The different types of crops produce different shades of green making the mountains seem to be draped in patchwork quilts. Although this might sound to not be as nice to look at when compared to the rainforest from the day before, the fact is, it may have been even more stunning. Every corner we rounded, we came face to face with even more majestic mountain tops and valleys.

Eventually, the mountains gave way to a great view of Lake Mutanda, the next part of our day's journey. Once on the shore, we got into a dugout canoe and set off. Our trip across the lake was supposed to take three hours, but we were able to make it in two and a quarter (largely thanks to my help paddling, I might add... *Brushes knuckles on his shirt*). The lake was pristine and, for the most part, pretty calm, but every time Evarist and our canoe guy, Moses, switched sides or when Evarist stopped to ladle some water from the bottom of the canoe, Courtney and I both felt that we were going to tip over, but Evarist and Moses hardly seemed to notice.

Once on solid ground again, we made our way to Kisoro through small towns and banana plantations. Kisoro itself seemed like a pretty normal town by Ugandan standards and boasted a brand new tarmacked road that lead straight the to border of the DRC (Congo). One unmistakable quality of the town, however, were the three volcanoes that loomed overhead, much bigger now than they had seemed from Nkuringo. There they stood, undaunted, almost taunting us about the day that lay ahead...